Tim Anderson: Cauliflower & Butter Bean Curry Gratin

4 AS A SIDE OR 2 ON ITS OWN

Extracted from JapanEasy Kitchen by Tim Anderson (Quadrille, £28) Photography © Patricia Niven

Doria are rice gratins, a yōshoku favourite dating back to the 1930s. Traditionally, they are made with white sauce, but there are also versions made with curry – a variant sometimes called yaki-curry. This recipe, using cauliflower, is what you’d get if a curry and cauliflower cheese had a baby. Great as a side dish, but with the addition of butter beans, it makes a very satisfying vegetarian main.

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Vegetarian recipes

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Method

Boil, steam or microwave the cauliflower until just tender, but with plenty of bite – about 4–5 minutes depending on the cooking method. Drain the cauliflower well, then season it with a little salt.

Prepare two portions of curry sauce according to the instructions on the box. For a standard 90–100 g (3¼–3½ oz) box of roux, this usually entails dissolving half of the box into 300–350 ml (10–12 fl oz/1¼–generous 1¹⁄³ cups) simmering water (you can skip the instructions about adding onions or meat or any other veg).

Preheat the oven to 200ºC (400°C/gas 6). Grease a 20 cm (8 in) gratin dish or baking dish with a little butter.

Scoop the rice into the bottom of the prepared dish, packing it tightly, so the sauce doesn’t drip down into it too much – you want a distinct layer of sauce. Place the blanched cauliflower on top of the rice in an even layer along with the butter beans (if using), then pour over the curry sauce. Top with the cheese, then bake for 20–25 minutes until well browned.

Serve piping hot, garnished with crispy onions and pickles, if you like. Fukujin-zuke are the classic choice, but pickled ginger is also delicious.

MAKE IT VEGAN

Use plant butter and vegan cheese – anything mild and melty will do.