Henry Harris: Steak Tartare

Extracted from The Racine Effect by Henry Harris (Quadrille, RRP £40) Photography © Sam Nolan

When feeling a little – or even very – jaded, a steak tartare with some hot, salty frites has restorative properties that I value. Dense, sweet meat with a spicy, aromatic emulsion to bring it all together is at its heart.

When I first started cooking in London, Mum gave me a couple of French cookery books from her collection. The one I value most is La Cuisine by Raymond Oliver. As chef-patron, he revived Le Grand Véfour in the Palais-Royal arcade in Paris in 1947, and his menus celebrated great classic cooking. It was in that book that found his wise words regarding steak tartare. He described it as simply raw meat that has been more strongly seasoned than normal.

While some may tell us that using a tougher cut will deliver more flavour, the soft, sweet texture of a fresh beef fillet tail is where I am happiest. My recipe is very savoury – the anchovy and mustard are what boost that edge.

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Method

Put the egg yolks, cornichons, capers, anchovies, mustard, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, oil and cognac into pestle and mortar and pound to a coarse purée. Alternatively, you can blitz them all in a food processor. Set aside.

Slice the beef into long, thin slices, then take these slices and slice them into long, thin strips. Take these strips and cut them into the smallest dice. Now, with your largest knife, give this pile of meat a good chop through to make it a little finer.

Transfer the meat to a bowl and add the seasoning purée along with the parsley and shallots. Mix well to create a good meat and dressing emulsion, then taste. Depending on personal preference, a little more Tabasco or Worcestershire sauce might be needed if you want it to have more of a kick. I find that an extra teaspoonful of Dijon is sometimes needed.

To serve, shape the mixture into four patties and place each one in the middle of a plate. Drizzle a little olive oil around the plate and add a generous milling of black pepper. Serve with plenty of toasted sourdough bread or, ideally, frites.